26 Feet to the Charlottes : Exploring the Land of the Haida

A mutual love of sailing, fishing and beach combing brought June Cameron and Paul Holsinger together, but it was their shared sense of adventure that took them to the Queen Charlotte Islands (Haida Gwaii). In 1983, after three summers of calm sailing together, the couple decided to cross the notoriously dangerous Hecate Strait in Paul's 26-foot wooden sloop Wood Duck. That would have been no problem for the racing sailboats June was used to skippering; it was a major undertaking for a small craft making only four and a half nautical miles per hour and without the assistance of electronic navigational aids. But what the sailors found when they reached the offshore islands was worth the trip. Twenty-five years ago, the Charlottes were not the tourist destination they are today, but they were appealing to sailors for their sheltered waters, pleasant views and protected anchorages. Salmon and prawns abounded, and harvesting abalone was not yet banned. And onshore there was lots to explore. As June and Paul visited uninhabited First Nations villages, a remote logging camp, a defunct whale meat cannery and abandoned gold and copper mines, they were struck by how hard it could be to make a living in the Charlottes. And like the islands' ancient inhabitants, they found themselves challenged to keep warm, find food, stay healthy and just plain survive in this remote and unforgiving place. Whether you're a sailor yourself or an armchair adventurer, June Cameron's writing will carry you away as she recalls a coast that has changed dramatically while conveying the joys of traveling by boat and living off the sea.